Maintenance of the wood-burning stove should only be performed when it is not in use/cold. The need for daily maintenance is limited to a minimum. The easiest cleaning method is to vacuum the outside of the stove with a small nozzle with soft bristles, or to dust with a dry, soft cloth or dust broom. Always remember that the stove must be cold before cleaning it. Do not use water, spirit or any other kind of cleaner, as this will damage the lacquer. The stove should be thoroughly cleaned once a year. Ash and soot must be removed from the combustion chamber.
The door and the locking fastenings must be greased with copper grease.
Emptying the ash pan or pot
Make sure the stove is completely cold before cleaning out ash (embers can remain hot for over 24 hours).
The ash pan is most easily emptied by pulling a waste bag over the pan, turning the pan upside down, and then carefully pulling it up and out of the bag again. Ash is to be disposed of responsibly.
Emptying the ash pot
Stoves with ash pots (the HWAM 3310, HWAM 3320 and HWAM 4410) are equipped with pipes for sucking out ash.
Open the ash hatch at the bottom of the wood-burning stove. The wheel underneath the stove is turned one revolution in the direction of the arrow, by which means the ash from the combustion chamber is shaken down into the ash pot, and simultaneously swept towards the pipe opening. This procedure can be repeated if the pot is very full. Remove the cap from the pipe, place the hose to the ash pan on to the pipe and turn on the motor/vacuum cleaner.
Please note: the ash must be completely cold before it is removed from the wood-burning stove.
Be aware that embers in the ash can remain hot up to 24 hours after the fire in the stove has gone out!
At least once every other year, the wood-burning stove should have a thorough, preventative service inspection. Among other things, the service inspection covers:
A thorough cleaning of the wood-burning stove.
Greasing the hinges with copper grease.
Inspection/possible replacement of seals. Seals between the door and glass must always be replaced.
Adjustment of the handle/door.
Inspection of the automatics system.
Possible replacement of springs in the automatics system.
Inspection/possible replacement of heating insulation material.
The inspection is to be performed by a qualified professional. Use only original spare parts.
Before cleaning your wood-burning stove, the regulator knob must be turned to the minimum setting in order to prevent soot and ash from coming into the automatics system.
Baffle plate is taken out. Push the plate forward and lift it up a bit to the side. Tilt one side down, and the plate becomes free and can be removed from the combustion chamber. The iron baffle plate is taken out. The transport safety catch is straightened out. The plate is lifted free of the hooks and is afterwards removed.
The efficient, but porous insulation of the combustion chamber may, in time, be worn and damaged. Cracks in the insulation are irrelevant to the efficiency or longevity of the stove however for the models HWAM 4100, HWAM 4200, HWAM 4300, HWAM 5530 and HWAM I40/55 a crack in the back plate can cause secondary air to become incorrectly distributed in the combustion chamber, and it should therefore be replaced. Also if there are actual holes due to parts of the lining falling off or when, due to wear and tear, it has been reduced to less than half its original thickness, it should be replaced.
Door lift (HWAM 3310, HWAM 3320, HWAM 4410, HWAM 3410. HWAM I 30/55)
The mechanism for the door lift consists of a chain drive that is positioned on each side of the wood-burning stove, and a spring that is located underneath the stove. If the door opens and closes too slowly, it can help to grease the chain wheel's bushing and door hinges with copper grease. This should be done once a year. If the door opens and closes too quickly, it generally means the spring has become too loose. It can be tightened by using a special tool. Ask your local HWAM dealer for assistance.
Please Note: You should always get a professional to grease and repair these parts.
It is normally not necessary to treat the surface. Any possible damage to the lacquer should, however, be repaired using Senotherm spray. Senotherm can be purchased at the dealer.